The green variety of the beryl family, emerald is one of the four historic precious stones alongside diamond, ruby and sapphire. Its colour, not its weight, is what gives it value.
See available emeraldsUnlike diamond, emerald is judged above all on its colour, a rich, saturated, even green is sought before any other criterion. The ideal hue sits between pure green and a slight blue-green, neither too light nor too dark.
A perfectly clean emerald is extremely rare, professionals call "jardin" (garden) the network of inclusions characteristic of this stone, and it doesn't devalue it as long as it stays discreet.
Most emeralds are treated with colourless oil (traditionally cedar oil) to reduce the visibility of the jardin, a long-standing, accepted practice, provided it's disclosed. Laboratories grade the degree of treatment on a scale recognised by the LMHC: "No oil" (none detected), "Insignificant" (negligible trace), "Minor", "Moderate" and "Significant". The lower the degree, the rarer the stone, a genuinely "no oil" Colombian emerald represents less than 0.02% of the market.
An important distinction: traditional oil (reversible) is not equivalent to synthetic resin (such as Opticon), an often-permanent filler considered less noble. I never offer a stone whose treatment isn't clearly stated on its report.
Colombian emeralds remain the most historically sought-after, particularly those from the Muzo, Chivor and Coscuez mines. The term "Muzo green" describes the warm, deep, slightly yellowish hue characteristic of that mine; Chivor tends to produce a more bluish green. The very finest Muzo stones can show the "gota de aceite" ("oil drop") effect, an extremely rare, silky optical veil prized by collectors. Zambian deposits (notably the Kagem mine) produce stones with a purer, cooler green, often of excellent clarity. Origin, when certified, directly influences the stone's value.
With a hardness of 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale (versus 10 for diamond) and a naturally included structure, emerald is more vulnerable to impact. I recommend avoiding intensive daily wear and removing the ring for any physical activity.
I select the emerald with you, then we choose the setting. The most requested designs:
The ring is set in 18-carat yellow, white or rose gold, or in platinum, in our workshops in Paris or Antwerp.
Yes, it is a bold and elegant choice. Emerald is more sensitive to knocks than diamond, so I recommend a setting that protects the stone, such as a bezel or a diamond halo, and the emerald cut, whose cut corners reduce the risk of chipping.
The price depends first on the colour, then on the origin (Colombia, Zambia…), the degree of oiling and the weight. Two emeralds of the same weight can have very different prices. I offer you several stones within your budget, all with a certificate.
An emerald in which the laboratory detects no oil or resin: the certificate states that no clarity enhancement was found. This is rare, especially above one carat, and such a stone is worth considerably more than an oiled emerald of similar appearance.
Almost all emeralds have natural fissures. They are filled with colourless oil to make them less visible. It is an old and accepted practice, as long as it is disclosed on the certificate.
Yes, provided you choose a protective setting (bezel or diamond halo) and take the ring off for activities where it could be knocked.
Yellow gold warms the green of the emerald, white gold and platinum make it look fresher. All work well: I set rings in 18-carat yellow, white or rose gold, or in platinum.
With lukewarm water, mild soap and a soft brush. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners, steam and household products.
It is a rectangular step cut with cut corners, created for emeralds: the cut corners protect the stone from knocks. It is also used for diamonds.
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